Facade work: advantages and disadvantages of chemical peeling.

Chemical peeling is one of the earliest, most effective, and commonly performed procedures in cosmetology. By causing controlled damage to the skin, peels effectively address a variety of cosmetic issues. The intensity of the peeling treatment depends on factors such as the concentration of the solution, the base used, the number of layers applied, the duration of the procedure, and several other considerations. We discussed all the details with Anna Kutina, a leading specialist at the "Family" clinic network.

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The advantages of chemical peeling include its effectiveness, minimal recovery time, resolution of various aesthetic issues, and relative affordability of the procedure. On the downside, possible side effects may include persistent redness, prolonged recovery, burns, and allergic reactions. Анна Кутина

Anna Koutina Dermatovenerologist, leading specialist at the "Family" clinic network

Let's take a closer look at the pros and cons depending on the type of chemical peels.

Superficial – the effect occurs within the epidermis without damaging the basal membrane.

Glycolic acid – easily penetrates the epidermal barrier and has the most pronounced effect. It stimulates collagen synthesis in the dermis, providing a lifting effect. Glycolic acid also reduces hyperpigmentation and possesses anti-inflammatory properties.

Lactic acid – has a pronounced moisturizing and exfoliating action.

Almond acid – used for sensitive skin, has whitening and comedolytic properties.

Salicylic acid – not an AHA, can be used in combination with fruit acids. It has significant keratolytic properties.

Azelaic acid – has whitening effects and possesses bactericidal properties.

Retinoic acid – stimulates cellular regeneration and renewal, reduces hyperpigmentation, is used for photoaging, and stimulates collagen synthesis. In some sources, it is categorized as a medium peel.

Superficial peels can be used at home. Important indicators include the concentration of acid and the pH of the peel; the pH of a home peel should not be lower than 3.5, and the concentration of the active ingredient should be above 10%. It is advisable to consult a specialist before using home peels.

Pros: minimal recovery, lower complication rates, comfort during the procedure, safety, and the possibility of year-round use.

Cons: not suitable for pronounced aesthetic issues (hyperpigmentation, deep wrinkles).

Medium – the effect extends to the basal membrane, reaching the papillary layer of the dermis.

Trichloroacetic acid peel (25-30%) – used for pronounced photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkles. A lifting effect is achieved by stimulating collagen production.

Jessner's peel (lactic acid, salicylic acid, resorcinol) – used for hyperkeratosis, pigmentation, wrinkles, and enlarged pores.

20% salicylic acid.

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Pros: pronounced and rapid effect on pigmentation, wrinkles, and keratosis. Some peel manufacturers (e.g., PRX-T33) do not have a prolonged recovery period.

Cons: there is a recovery period, preparation is necessary for optimal results, possible side effects (persistent redness, significant peeling, burns), seasonal procedure.

Deep – the effect encompasses the epidermis, basal membrane, papillary, and part of the reticular layer of the dermis.

Phenol peel – used for pronounced wrinkles and scars.

Pros: pronounced anti-aging effect.

Cons: toxic, performed under sedation, prolonged recovery, significant side effects, high cost of the procedure.

Contraindications

Inflammatory process or disruption of the skin's integrity in the area of the intended peel.

General inflammatory process, ARVI, exacerbation of "Herpes simplex";

Pregnancy and lactation.

Oncological diseases.

Decompensated diabetes with trophic disorders.

Polyvalent allergies.

Increased sensitivity to the smell of synthetic dyes.

Conducting another damaging cosmetic procedure in the area of the intended peel (dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, depilation, mesonites, etc.) the day before.

Taking systemic retinoids in the last month.